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2017年11月26日星期日

The 22nd Model for the 20th Anniversary: Patek Philippe Annual Calendar

In 2016, Patek Philippe’s Annual Calendar, which only needs to be corrected once a year, is celebrating its 20th anniversary. To commemorate this occasion, the manufacture has launched a new model of this complication. This watch (Ref. 5396) has been subtly reworked and refined and logically complements the 21 previous models that have been presented since 1996.



The new Patek Philippe Annual Calendar is available in white gold with a dark gray sunburst dial and in rose gold with a silvery white opaline dial. Both models look familiar yet at the same time appear to be totally new. Familiar because of the style elements that dominate the series for years, and new because these elements have never before been combined this way.
The round of the case merges gracefully with the strap lugs, and a smoothly polished bezel frames the dial. The sapphire-crystal glass is prominently cambered, endowing the watch with volume and a modern look. You can easily spot the Calatrava personality in this one, which is somewhat of the archetype of all classic round watches.

The dial features an in-line double aperture in the upper half that displays the day of the week on the left and the month on the right. The date display is positioned in a large aperture at 6 o’clock. Together with the double aperture, it frames the 24-hour subsidiary dial with the moon-phase display in the lower half of the dial to assure a visually balanced configuration.
This layout is reminiscent of Patek Philippe perpetual calendars from the 1940s and 50s. The main difference lies in the position of the analog date scale, which is occupied by the 24-hour dial, which doubles as a day/night indication in the Ref. 5396.
The time is indicated in classic fashion: A peripheral circle of small gold minute markers frames the Breguet numerals. They harmonize great with the Dauphine-style hour and minute hands as well as with the long, slender sweep seconds hand.



The heart of the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5396 is a self-winding mechanical movement that correctly displays the calendar information for an entire year. Much of the finesse of the caliber 324 S QA LU 24H is visible through the sapphire-crystal case back.

And: good news for everyone who fell in love with this gorgeous timepiece: This anniversary edition is not a limited one.

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2017年11月25日星期六

Swatch A La Folie


Todos os anos, a Swatch não perde a oportunidade de criar relógios que aproveitam determinadas datas, entre elas o tradicional Dia de São Valentim, mais conhecido por Dia dos Namorados.
Este ano, o relógio criado especialmente para as namoradas chama-se A La Folie. Por cerca de 55 euros temos direito a um Swatch de quartzo numa caixa que deixa ver a maior parte do movimento, enquadrada por um coração cor-de-rosa e com pulseira de plástico em branco.
O conjunto é vendido numa caixa esférica igualmente em rosa, com um grande coração branco. O diâmetro do mostrador é de 34mm, tamanho considerado “médio” na nomenclatura da Swatch – a título de comparação, um Swatch “normal” tem um diâmetro de 41mm.

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2017年11月24日星期五

Hamilton Khaki Field Auto 42mm H70555533



A Hamilton é a marca do Grupo Swatch que se encontra no limite dos relógios B3, abaixo da Longines (que, apesar de tudo, tem algumas peças interessantes abaixo dos €1000, especialmente de quartzo) e acima da Tissot.

Este Khaki Field Auto com caixa de 42mm de diâmetro é um relógio automático simples mas clássico, de três ponteiros e data às 3H00 que usa o movimento ETA 2824-2. A principal originalidade passa pelo mostrador, que possui uma dupla escala para 12 e 24 horas. Contudo, o resultado é um relógio elegante que tanto pode ser usado num contexto outdoor e de aventura, como servir perfeitamente como um dress watch um pouco mais informal.

A execução inclui bracelete em pele, vidro de safira e resistência à água até 100 metros. O preço ronda os €400, o que me parece razoável para um relógio mecânico com estas características e de uma marca como a Hamilton.

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2017年11月20日星期一

Davis 1950MB Retro Classic



A Davis é uma jovem marca francesa fundada em Cannes em 1987. O website da marca inclui peças muito interessantes, com uma boa relação preço/qualidade aparente. O relógio que vos trago hoje representa bem esse rácio; trata-se do modelo 1950MB da coleção Retro Classic da marca e que usa o interessante – mas ainda pouco frequente – movimento cronógrafo Miyota 0S00 com dia e data às 3h00.

Este modelo é particularmente elegante e bem desenhado. A caixa, em aço polido, tem 44mm de diâmetro e o mostrador, numa bonita cor champanhe, exibe índices nas posições horárias com uma sub-escala de 60 minutos/segundos.

A bracelete em malha milanesa conjuga-se da melhor forma com a cor do aço da caixa, muito embora exista uma variante do mesmo modelo com bracelete em pele castanha também muito bonita.

O preço de referência indicado pela marca no seu website é de 229 euros (209 com bracelete em pele), mas encontrámo-lo na Amazon UK por menos de 200 (£159), o que é uma pechincha ainda maior.

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Deaumar Ensign Automatisch



Da wir in einer Welle von „micromarcas“ sind , ist es schwierig , mehr Mikro zu sein als Deaumar , eine britische Marke , die zum Zeitpunkt dieses Beitrags nur ein Modell hat (obwohl in 5 Versionen von verschiedenen Farben rückläufig), genannt Ensign .

Im Gegensatz zu dem Modell Helgray , die ich vor kurzem gesprochen wird diese Deaumar basierend auf einer automatische mechanische Bewegung, in diesem Fall ein SII (Seiko) NH36 , mit Tag und Datum 3H00.

Es ist eine Taucheruhr von ausgezeichneter Ästhetik und guter scheinbarer Ausführung, mit einem Stahlgehäuse von 42mm Durchmesser, das bis 20 ATM (200 Meter) beständig ist. Das Zifferblatt hat ein klassisches Design für diese Art von Uhr, mit einer Kombination aus kreisförmigen und geometrischen Indizes und Zeigern nüchterner als üblich.

Die drehbare unidirektionale Lünette erhält die gleiche Farbe, die wir im Zifferblatt finden, und das Set wird durch ein Band aus Stahl ergänzt. Das Zifferblatt ist aus Saphirglas mit Blendschutzbeschichtung.

Fähnrich verkauft auch über das Internet, und als EU-Raumfahrtfirma (solange der Brexit nicht greift ...) hat er den Vorteil, dass er keine Zollprobleme hat. Der PVP ist £ 249 + 20% MwSt. Und es gibt Varianten in schwarz, weiß, orange und rot.

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2017年11月18日星期六

Swatch wins small victory. Is it enough to inspire others?

Last week it was reported that the Swatch Group won a small victory in the Swiss courts. The court rejected an appeal from 11 other manufacturers that would require the Swatch Group to continue to produce and supply watch components to other brands. Swatch Group has long since supplied components to the majority of the Swiss watch industry outside of its umbrella with the exception of a few independents left in the industry like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and JLC, which though part of a group, do develop their own movements.
The hope for a watch enthusiast like me is that the Swatch Group, though a large corporate conglomerate will win complete control over their supply chain and production. My hope is that it will inspire other timepiece producers to become innovators. Too long have they rested on mediocrity and been flat with innovation. Watch making is an art born from creation and freedom. There are no rules to govern the engineering of a movement. The only requirement is simply that it must work. Watch making has become an assembly line, with any brand of the moment being able to spit out sub par cloned pieces using movements of others design as their own total creation. The worst part is that because the movements manufactured by Swatch Group will constitute a majority of the watch and are made in Switzerland, these so called manufacturers can label their watches as Swiss Made. Most likely the cases are built in Germany or the Pacific using materials and labor harvested from third world countries. That is not exactly my definition of Swiss Made. The big loser here is the consumer. Being Swiss Made commands a premium and most likely you aren’t receiving that.
If the courts continue to side with the Swatch Group and allow them to limit supply of their components, other watch manufacturers will have no choice but to fight or flight. Hopefully they will fight and design their own movements. Eventually my dream would be that this would allow access to in-house movements at much lower price points. In-house movements and or independent brands at this time are mostly in what I consider a higher price bracket than those brands that offer pieces made with an off the line Swatch Group movement (in most cases). Access to those brands that have been innovators has long been out of reach for the average enthusiast. Though prices of in-house movements have been high, they have also been warranted with money going to R&D, marketing, infrastructure (think factories etc.) and creativity with advancements in design and technology. These high costs have usually rested on the shoulders of only a few brands. With the Swatch Group decreasing supply in the future, the aim is for more brands to share these costs and allow innovation to blossom at a lower price point. With this recent decision of the courts, my dream is slowly becoming more lucid. Hopefully by the time I can see it clearly, I will have saved up enough money either way to afford some innovation.

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My Weekly Ramble

A few thoughts for the day: which trend will be popular next in the world of watches. Will the must have timepieces be based on fashion, function, sport, vintage, price or what? They say what goes around comes around, but in this market/economy there is no way to know. My bet is that consumers put a strong emphasis on the cost to value ratio and if push comes to shove, cost. Cost is arbitrary when dealing with timepieces, but we must remember that most are simply our wants rather than needs. We are able to tell time with a $15 watch just as well as we are with a $150K watch. We all know that isn’t necessarily what it is about, but how much will this economy cause our passion to become green with jealousy for the dollar. Some say that the dollar buys a lot less these days, but I think otherwise. The dollar can buy a meal, pay the rent, pay for school, and oh it can pay for a watch too. A lot of companies keep increasing prices and I worry that they will soon price themselves out of value for what consumers consider their products to be worth. This cost or price effect to me will have a major impact on the timepiece market. Just because a lot of people still have money or are making money doesn’t mean they should automatically have to pay more for less. I am eluding to the thought that I think watch companies are providing fewer options for introductions of new models and or changes that are actually worth their weight (depending on the metal, ha). Essentially change for the sake of change. Change is crucial I understand to driving the market and reason for a new purchase, However, I feel as though I am seeing dial changes or the addition of a new bezel offering to warrant an increased price on an essentially unchanged watch just because. I wish companies would attribute price hikes to innovations and designs worthy of museums. I previously wrote about how I wish that when ETA begins to ration their movements that it will inspire creativity. I view price as that next bit of inspiration. I have my fingers crossed and look good in blue while holding my breath in case anyone is wondering.

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2017年11月17日星期五

Lass uns tief unter Wasser kommen.

Das Tauchwatchspiel ist ein überfüllter Markt. Um sich von der Packung zu trennen, benötigen Sie einen einzigartigen Stil und üppige Qualität, passende Beschreibungen für die Panerai Luminor. Jetzt konnte ich den ganzen Tag darüber reden, was den Luminor zu so einer unverwechselbaren Uhr macht, aber das muss ich wirklich nicht. Auf den ersten Blick kann man sagen, dass dies eine Uhr wie keine andere ist, und Panerai hat den Markt auf der riesigen, kissenförmigen Taucheruhr in die Enge getrieben.


In der High School wurde gewählt: Am ehesten in einer Schatztruhe auf dem Grund des Ozeans gefunden werden.

für Jahrzehnte. Dieser individuelle Geist, zusammen mit seiner Tauchkapazität, ist genug, um Panerai eine der sammelbarsten Uhren auf dem Markt heute zu machen, aber diese Uhr ist immer noch nicht beeindruckend gemacht! Das Zifferblatt aus 18 Karat Gold und das Zifferblatt aus Kohlefaser machen diese Uhr zu einer Klasse für sich, selbst unter den immer originalen Luminors. Sportlich, elegant und aufmerksamkeitsstark, alles in einer einzigartigen Uhr gerollt, das bringt uns am Morgen auf der SwissWatchExpo aus dem Bett und erzeugt ein Gefühl von Stil, von dem Sie noch nicht einmal wussten, dass Sie es hatten!

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2017年11月9日星期四

Time, History and Important Dates: Lack of Chronometers Didn't Stop Christopher Columbus



In elementary school many of us were taught (usually as a mind-reminder for a test): “In 1492 Columbus sailed the Ocean Blue.” Well, in fact, Christopher Columbus sailed many oceans blue for longer than just a year – but it was on October 12 in 1492 that he actually arrived in the Americas.

Interestingly, in those days there were no navigational tools save the sextant and the stars (it would be hundreds of years later until scientists, explorers and watchmakers would come together to solve the problem of longitude with the chronometer). It is most likely he tracked time at sea via a sundial, and by the 15th century sundials were portable and often included a built-in compass. Essentially a sundial tells time by the movement of the shadow that a pointer casts on a dial that marks the hours of the day. The shadow moves as the Earth rotates and the sun changes position in the sky.



While Columbus had some longitudes wrong, he was able to harness the Trade Winds for his safe sails and returns across the Atlantic — settling colonies in North and South America. Still, it was his first landing that begets this more-than-500-year-old significant date in history wherein we celebrate Columbus Day as an official holiday — commemorating our "discovery." However, it was not the official Americas discovery. The Nordic explorers (Leif Erickson) had already visited the already-inhabited lands. Still, Columbus got credit and the day became – eventually – a national holiday not just in America but also in other countries around the world.



In the Bahamas, Columbus Day is recognized as Discovery Day, and in Spain and Italy it is also celebrated as Fiesta Nacional or Festa Nazionale di Cristopher Columbus. Argentina, Belize and Uruguay also celebrate – and many have done so unofficially since the colonial days. In the United States, it did not become a federal holiday until 1937. Interestingly enough, Hawaii (and a few other states for various reasons) does not recognize Columbus Day. Hawaii for instance celebrates the day as Discoverers’ Day – and commemorates the Polynesian discovery of the Hawaiian Islands – but it is not a legal holiday.

While Columbus was born in Genoa, now part of Italy, he sailed under the auspices of Spain and completed four voyages across the Atlantic Ocean. It was his belief that he could reach the East Indies (hoping to open a new route for spice trade with Asia) by sailing westward. During his first voyage he landed not in Japan as expected, but in the Bahamas archipelago – on the island he named San Salvador. An astute navigator, Columbus focused his efforts on building permanent settlements for Spain. Throughout his ensuing voyages, he visited Central America, the Caribbean and the coast of Venezuela, claiming them all for the Spanish Empire. While Columbus was not the first explorer to land in the Americas, he was the first to bring lasting communication between the Americas and Europe.


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2017年11月8日星期三

Cartier Watches Demonstrate Metiers d' Arts



Earlier in the week we discussed how so many top watch brands are pulling out all the stops when it comes to decorating watch dials as objects of art. Cartier — a brand we are proud to carry — is one of the masters at bringing Metiers d'Arts to the forefront.



Over the past few years, Cartier dials have incorporated wood marquetry, mosaics, enamel work, sculptural work on abalone, engraving and even gem-adorned dimensional animals that could be added to the watch dial or worn separately as a brooch.



Additionally, the brand does not discriminate — creating artistic wonders for both men and women. Here we bring you a pictorial of some of the finest works of art from Cartier.


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2017年11月5日星期日

Three-Day Vintage Watch Course Answers the Question: Luxury or Lie?

We have so many watch aficionados asking us all the time about what they need to know when it comes to buying vintage watches. Now, the National Association of Watch & Clock Collectors (NAWCC) has put together a three-day course entitled "Luxury or Lie? How to Identify a Genuine Watch."



Now, you know that if you buy a new watch from an authorized retailer you are safe. But when it comes to buying vintage watches from a source you don't know you need to be careful. The course — being offered in Santa Paula, Calif., November 12-14 — reviews watch terminology, complications, movements and more. Additionally, it teaches which components are the most important to study when buying a vintage watch, including dials, hands, strap and even the case.

The course instructors are also bringing in both genuine and fake watches for participants to examine close up. Among brands covered throughout the two day event are Omega, Rolex, Rolex-Tudor, Breitling, Cartier, Tag Heuer, Panerai, Bell & Ross, Montblanc, Girard-Perregaux, Audermars Piquet and others.

There is a fee for the class and interested parties should visit NAWCC.org. Of course, you can typically trust vintage watches sold by authorized retailers as well as the major auction houses.

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2017年11月4日星期六

shopping For Good Swiss Replica Watches

2.Straight bands are good bands and kinked bands are bad. First off, if the bracelet doesn’t obviously match the watch, move on down to the next dealer. The bracelet can tell you whether that watch is a real or a fake. Pick up the watch and hold it over a soft surface with the watch facing down. Look at the links in the bracelet. Are they hanging nice and smooth or are they all kinked up? Those bracelet links may stretch a bit over time, but they just don’t kink. If the bracelet is kinked, it’s probably a fake.

The tachometric scale is one of Rolex Daytona’s unique features. The racer can measure his average speed and elapsed circuit time with the chronograph mechanism and bezel. Obviously, the Rolex Daytona has been specially designed for racers. As you are shopping for replicas, make sure that all three counters are well working. The pushers located on the right side of the watch should also be verified. The pushers need to be easy to be clicked. One of the very best features of the Rolex Daytona is the easy clicking of these pushers. It allows the circuit time to be easily and accurately started and stopped during driving.

It is interesting to note that between 1894 and 1899, a mere 1,208 watches were produced. Among these were some of the most sophisticated timepieces ever made, including the legendary “Grande Complication” series, which is still being produced today. Aside from normal time indication, a Grande Complication timepiece offers minute repetition, perpetual calendar, and chronograph. The good news is that are several high quality Rolex Daytona replica watches available on the market, which can be bought even by people with average income and to enjoy wearing an elegant and fully functional watch. The only difference between a knockoff and an original Rolex is the materials used to manufacture them.

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2017年11月2日星期四

Pokémon Eröffnung Pokeball-Uhr

Heute trage ich eine meiner albernen Kinderuhren und eine meiner Pokémon-Uhrenkollektionen.

Diese Uhr hat ein großes, rundes Plastikgehäuse und ein Gesicht, das als Pokeball gemalt ist (der zum Pokémon-Pokern in Spielen / TV-Serien verwendet wird), wobei die Mitte des Balls die 4-stellige LCD-Anzeige ist. Wie bei den normalen Neuheitsuhren ist das LCD-Modul sehr einfach und hat nur Zeit-, Datums- und Sekundenanzeigen. Der Pokeball kann durch Drehen der Lünette "geöffnet" werden, und dies ändert das Bild auf der Vorderseite vom Pokeball zu einer Sammlung von Pokémon (Pikachu, Bonsley, Marshtomp, Meowth, Septile und Mime Jr).

Der Riemen ist mit verschiedenen Bildern auf jeder Seite umkehrbar und wird durch ein leichtes Herausziehen aus dem Körper getauscht, so dass er gedreht werden kann. Eine Seite ist gelb mit Bildern von Meowth, Pikachu, Minun, Plusle und Munchlax. Die andere Seite ist grün und hat die weißen Umrisszeichnungen von vielen Pokemon (zu viele, um zu nennen).

Das neueste Pokémon erschien nur in der Generation IV, die die Uhr um 2005/06 datiert, aber es hat eine ungewöhnliche Mischung aus Gen III und Gen IV Charakteren. Die Rückseite der Uhr gibt nichts über die Herkunft, wie alles, was sie sagt, ist "Patentiert".




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2017年11月1日星期三

Metro Baltimore

Die Metro Uhrenmarke ist eine, die ich erst vor kurzem zu sammeln begann. Alle Links, die ich zu den Uhren habe, scheinen sie an ein japanisches Möbelhaus zu binden. Sie stellen eine Reihe von Uhren her, von denen die meisten nach Orten in Amerika benannt sind.

Diese Uhr folgt der Namensgebung und heißt Baltimore. Es hat ein TV geformtes Zifferblatt in einem glänzenden Metallgehäuse und hat ein Retro-Gefühl für das Design. Das Gesicht kennzeichnet das Metrologo (das Wort Metro in einem Skriptart-Schriftart mit einer Spitze mit 5 Spitzen) zusammen mit dem Baltimore-Namen und das Wort Kristall, das ich vermute, bezieht sich auf das Glas.

Es ist ein Quarzmodell mit einem 3-Zeiger und einer Datumsmarkierung in der 3-Uhr-Position. Das Armband ist aus Metall und wird mit einer Spange mit eingraviertem Metro-Logo verschlossen.

Die Rückseite der Uhr hat das Logo und den Namen der Uhr mit dem Hinweis, dass es sich um ein "1970er Modell" handelt. Dies muss sich auf den Designstil beziehen, da ich denke, dass die Metro-Uhren entweder aus den späten 2000er Jahren oder in den letzten Jahren stammen.



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